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The Lodge has its own airstrip in the jungle but we opted for the 2 hour drive from Belize City. As you bump along the unpaved and potholed track into the Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve you begin to appreciate the logistical nightmare that it must have been to build Blancaneaux.
Devastated Pine Forest
The jungle around Blancaneaux is tropical pine forest. This unique habitat has been devastated in the last few years by an infestation of the southern pine bark beetle.
Tragically, the most likely cause were measures introduced to protect the forest. It would seem that fire is a crucial regulating mechanism, ensuring that only the strongest pine trees survive. If too many trees survive they are weakened in the competition for resources and become more susceptible to infestation.
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80% of the pine forest, across the whole Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, was killed. A massive replanting operation is underway, but it will be 20-30 years before it recovers. In the meantime, the bare trunks of the dead trees poke out of the broad leaf undergrowth that is filling the void.
Jaguar on the way to Caracol
The Mayan ruins of Caracol are a one hour drive from Blancaneaux. The drive is an experience in its own right. We were the first vehicle to bounce up the track through the rainforest and were exceptionally lucky to chance upon a spotted jaguar - there are only around 150 left in the wild. Unfortunately I didn't get a chance to grab a photo though.
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Caracol itself was once a huge Mayan city, consisting of up to 3500 buildings. Only a tiny fraction of these have been excavated and restored. The site is still under active archaelogical investigation.
Few people visit due to the site's poor accessibility. Works to improve access and infrastructure are underway. In the meantime, Caracol provides a fantastic insight into the archaelogical process. The temples may not be as impressive as those at Tikal, but the experience of being almost the only people at a site that is only just emerging from the jungle made it our enjoyable trip during our stay at Blancaneaux.
Riding Godfather
Blancaneaux has its own stables and we went on a 3 hour sunset ride through the rainforest. Having never ridden before I was allocated "Godfather", a large grey docile-looking horse. Clearly unimpressed with my technique, Godfather took charge and snacked heavily as we wound our way through the forest. He took it easy and lagged behind. Then, living up to his name, he served up his revenge with a coldly calculated trot that wreaked havoc with my nether regions.
Overall impression
Back at Blancaneaux itself, the food is fabulous, taking full advantage of the lodge's extensive organic garden and wood-burning oven. Many of the wines come from Copolla's own vineyard and are also excellent. All the staff were genuinely friendly and interesting to talk with. Blancaneaux is a perfect place to relax.
Our Blancaneux and related photos are in the Belize & Guatemala album.
Photography tips:
- Explore the short bird trail, that starts near cabana 1 at dawn, or towards dusk, with a decent zoom. Expect social groups of colourful small birds, parrots, woodpeckers and turkey vultures. The area around the organic garden is also good.
- Keep an eye out for large Jesus Christ lizards on the rocks near the river banks.
- At Tikal, make sure your guide is aware that you want to spend a lot of time exploring around the Grand Plaza on your own (we didn't and regretted it).
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